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Friday 31 August 2012

STANDARD SALARY IN THE WORLD


SALARY IN THE WORLD (GAJI)


Salary atau gaji seseorang itu berbeda-beda tergantung kepada berapa rizki yang Allah berikan kepadanya saat ini. Kita hanya bisa berusaha MENDAPATKAN GAJI yang setinggi-tingginya dengan bekerja secara profesional dan menunjukkan semaksimal mungkin kemampuan kita.

Yang penting lagi adalah kita bersyukur dengan salary yang kita capai sekarang dan selalu berdo'a agar dengan gaji yang kita peroleh sekarang hidup kita merasa cukup, berkah, bermanfaat dan enjoy...

Salary di dunia biasanya tergantung biaya hidup di negara tersebut. Jika biaya untuk standard hidup di negara tersebut tinggi seperti biaya sewa rumah, makan, dan transportasi tinggi maka gajinya juga mengikuti...

Monday 20 August 2012

HOW TO CONTROL WEEDS

WEED IN TURF AND LANDSCAPE AREA

Crabgrasses

Scientific name: Digitaria spp. (Grass Family: Poaceae)

Click on image to enlarge
Life stages of Crabgrassestop left picturetop right picturebottom left picturebottom right picture
Crabgrasses are summer annual grasses that generally grow in patches. They inhabit agricultural land and other disturbed sites. In California, large crabgrass, Digitaria sanguinalis, is more often found in gardens or landscape areas and smooth crabgrass, Digitaria ischaemum, is more often found in turf. They can provide good forage for livestock.
Habitat
Crop fields, orchards, vineyards, gardens, landscaped areas, turf, nurseries, pastures, roadsides, ditches, and other disturbed places.
Mature plant
Stems mostly branch at the base, are flattened in cross-section, and grow upright or prostrate. Leaves are flat, rolled in the bud and have a prominent midvein. Sheaths are open and flattened. Lower stems may root at stem joints (nodes) and the root system is fibrous.
Collar region
Ligules are membranous. There are no auricles.
Flower
Their flower heads have spikelike branches in one, or more often, two whorls at the stem tip. The spikelets that originate from the main stem are found at 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch (0.3–0.6 cm) intervals. The branches are 1/2 to 2-1/2 inches (1.3–6.4 cm) long.



Crabgrass

Revised 6/10
In this Guideline:

Smooth crabgrass.
Smooth crabgrass.
Large crabgrass in a lawn.
Large crabgrass in a lawn.
Smooth crabgrass seedling.
Smooth crabgrass seedling.
Smooth crabgrass collar region and sheath. The ligule at the base of the leaf blade is a short projection, and there are no auricles.
Smooth crabgrass collar region and sheath. The ligule at the base of the leaf blade is a short projection, and there are no auricles.
Flowering stem of smooth crabgrass.
Flowering stem of smooth crabgrass.
Table 1. Proper Mowing Height for Turfgrass Species.
Turf speciesMowing height
(in inches)
bentgrass, colonial0.5–1
bentgrass, creeping0.5 or less
bermudagrass, common1–1.5
bermudagrass, hybrid
Santa Ana0.5–0.75
tifgreen0.25–0.5
tifway II0.5–0.75
bluegrass, Kentucky1.5–2.5
dichondra0.5–0.75
fescue, fine1.5–2.5
fescue, tall2–3
kikuyugrass1–1.5
ryegrass, annual1.5–2
ryegrass, perennial1.5–2.5
St. Augustinegrass1–2
zoysiagrass.5–1
Crabgrass is a weed almost everyone is familiar with. Two species are common in California—smooth crabgrass, Digitaria ischaemum, and large or hairy crabgrass, D. sanguinalis. Both were introduced from Eurasia and are widespread throughout the United States. As annuals, they germinate, set seed, and die within one year.
You’ll find crabgrass in lawns, ornamental landscapes, and vegetable gardens. Large crabgrass also grows in orchards, vineyards, and other agricultural areas. Crabgrass has many other names including crowfoot grass, watergrass, and summer grass. It grows in most parts of California, except at high elevations and areas that receive no summer water. It is often confused with goosegrass and the perennials dallisgrass and bermudagrass.

IDENTIFICATION AND LIFE CYCLE

Smooth Crabgrass
Smooth crabgrass is a low-growing, summer annual that spreads by seed and from rootings of the joints (culm nodes) that lie on the soil. It dies with the first frost in the fall. Unmowed, it will grow upright to about 6 inches, but even if you mow it as short as 1/4 inch, it still can produce seed.
Seedling leaves are light green and smooth. They are very conspicuous in the lawn with their lighter green color. True leaves are dark green but still smooth, and the leaf blade is from 1/4 to 1/3 inch across, up to 5 inches long, and pointed. Crabgrass often forms patches in lawns, and plants can grow together to form large clumps. The projection at the base of the leaf blade, known as the ligule, is small and inconspicuous, and the collar region lacks the clasping, prominent outgrowths or auricles present on some grasses. The leaf sheath and upper leaf surface are smooth, but a few hairs can be present on the lower leaf surface. Sometimes a reddish tint is visible at the base of the leaf.
The inflorescence, or flower stalk, has branches that originate from the main stem at 1/8- to 1/4-inch intervals. The branches are 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches long at the end of the stalk.
Large Crabgrass
When found in turf, large crabgrass is a low-growing, summer annual that spreads by seed and from rootings of nodes that lie on the soil. Unmowed, it can grow 2 feet tall. It won’t tolerate close mowing as well as smooth crabgrass. As a result, smooth crabgrass is a more common weed in lawns.
Seedling leaves are light green and hairy. True leaves are generally 3 inches long and hairy on the upper surface of the leaf and leaf sheath. The collar region and flower stalk are similar to that of smooth crabgrass, but the branches are longer—about 2 to 5 inches—at the end of the stalk. One source reports seed production from a single, large crabgrass plant can be as high as 150,000.
Life cycle
The flowering stems of both species of crabgrass are similar to those of bermudagrass and goosegrass, but the panicle-like branches (whorls) on the flowering stems of these other grasses originate at the same point while those on crabgrass originate about 1/8 to 1/4 inch apart at the end of the stem.
Dallisgrass, another common grass in lawns, has panicle branches that are widely separated on the flowering stem. Dallisgrass and bermudagrass can be readily distinguished from crabgrass by their characteristic vegetative reproductive structures that allow rapid spread in the garden. Dallisgrass has short, thick, underground rhizomes, and bermudagrass spreads with slender, belowground rhizomes and aboveground rooting stems called stolons. As an annual weed, crabgrass spreads primarily by seed and doesn’t have rhizomes or stolons.
In Southern California, the major germination period for both crabgrass species is from mid-January to early April, depending on the temperature; however, seeds can germinate throughout spring and summer. Although germination is early in areas with mild winters, growth is slow during spring months until mid-May. In June and July the plants produce primarily leaves and stems and typically flower in late July and August. In the absence of a frost, crabgrass can overwinter in warm areas or during warm winters and produce new growth and a second crop of seed in spring or early summer.
In central and northern parts of the state, crabgrass begins to sprout early to mid-March when soil temperatures reach 50° to 55°F for at least 3 consecutive days. Growth and germination will continue throughout summer and into fall.

MANAGEMENT

Crabgrass is easy to manage using a variety of cultural and chemical controls. Controlling crabgrass before it sets seed is important, because the seeds can remain viable for at least 3 years in soil.
Cultural Control in Turfgrass
Because crabgrass spreads and reproduces primarily by seed, any cultural efforts that reduce seed production will decrease occurrences of this weed. Cultural activities that increase the vigor of turfgrass also decrease the potential of crabgrass invasion. These include using the proper mowing height for your specific turf, selecting the best turf species for your area, overseeding to keep turfgrass thick, applying fertilizer at the correct time of year, and proper irrigation. For more information on maintaining vigorous lawns that out compete weeds, see The UC Guide to Healthy Lawns.
Mowing height
Mowing at the optimum height for turf increases turfgrass vigor and reduces the germination and establishment of crabgrass. Select the proper mowing height from Table 1 for the dominant turfgrass species in your lawn. After mowing crabgrass-infested turf, thoroughly rinse the mower to remove seeds and avoid transferring them to uninfested sites.
Species selection
Selecting a turfgrass that is adapted to your local conditions also will help produce vigorous turf. Cool-season species (bentgrass, Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescues, and perennial ryegrass) are most competitive in coastal and northern regions of California. Some of the newer cultivars of Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, and perennial ryegrass are even more competitive and grow better than the older cultivars. For example, tall fescue cultivars used for turf vary in their ability to compete with both smooth and large crabgrass Crabgrass tends to invade the older fescue varieties (Fawn and Kentucky 31), which grow in an open, upright manner. The slower-growing, dwarf-type tall fescue varieties, especially Bonsai, also are susceptible to crabgrass invasion. A newer Bonsai variety (2000) claims a more vigorous growth habit.
Warm-season species (bermudagrass, dichondra, St. Augustine grass, and zoysiagrass) are most competitive with weeds in interior valleys and desert regions. Kikuyugrass is more competitive in south coastal regions.
In the turf selection process it is important to consider the amount of foot traffic, pest problems, and/or shade, as these factors can significantly impact the vigor of the lawn. For example, hybrid bermuda can be very competitive, but only if it receives adequate sunlight. If it receives fewer than 6 hours of sun during the day, it will grow poorly and weeds can easily invade. Tar Heel tall fescue withstands more foot traffic on the lawn than does the variety Justice. Other newer tall fescue varieties include Barlexas, Coyote, Greenkeeper, and Innovator.
Table 2. Periods of Active Growth of Cool- and Warm-season Turf Species.
Turfgrass speciesPeriod of active growth
Cool-season turf
bentgrassMarch–June, September–November
bluegrass, Kentuckylate February–late May, October–December
fescue, fineMarch–June, October–December
fescue, tallMarch–June, October–December
ryegrass, annual (for overseeding)October–May
ryegrass, perennialFebruary–June, October–December
Warm-season turf
bermudagrassApril–late September
dichondraApril–October
kikuyugrassFebruary–November
St. AugustinegrassMarch–October
zoysiagrassApril–October
Fertilization
Fertilizers can increase turfgrass vigor and reduce the possibility of a crabgrass invasion. The best time to fertilize is when the turf is actively growing, which depends upon your turf species (Table 2). Because seedling crabgrass isn’t very competitive, a vigorously growing turf will crowd out new seedlings.
Water management
Irrigation timing and amount also can affect crabgrass germination and growth. Overwatered turf or turf that receives daily, light irrigation becomes weak and vulnerable to invasion by this weed. Irrigating once a week will improve turf vigor. Often, crabgrass first appears in open areas with no turf, along sidewalks where the soil can be warmer, or around sprinkler heads where turf is mowed more closely.
Cultural Control in the Landscape and Garden
In the landscape, you easily can control crabgrass by mulching, hoeing, and hand pulling when the plants are young and before they set seed. You also can control this weed with solarization. Several chemical herbicides are available but often aren’t necessary.
Mulch
Mulching with wood products (e.g. wood chips or nuggets), composted yard waste, or synthetic landscape fabrics covered with mulch will reduce crabgrass in shrub beds and bedding plants and around trees by blocking sunlight needed for its germination, establishment, and growth. Mulch depth depends on the size of the particles; coarse mulch might need to be 3 to 6 inches deep to control all weeds, while a finer mulch might need to be only 2 to 3 inches deep. Plan to replenish landscape mulches periodically because of decomposition, movement, or settling.
Organic mulches that have been on the soil for a while decomposing can provide an adequate growth medium for weeds to germinate and grow in. If crabgrass is germinating in the mulch, move it about with a rake to reduce seedling establishment. Hand pull escaped crabgrass plants before they set seed. Flaming with a hand-held burner will control crabgrass seedlings, but be careful not to set fire to the mulch if it is wood chips, compost, or another flammable material.
Solarization
Soil solarization with clear plastic prior to planting is effective for eradicating crabgrass plants and seed if you apply it during periods of high solar radiation. For more information about this process, see Pest Notes: Soil Solarization for Gardens & Landscapes.
Chemical Control
Crabgrass is easy to control in both turfgrass and ornamental beds if you apply preemergent herbicides before it germinates or postemergent herbicides after it germinates. Avoid using chemical herbicides in vegetable gardens because of the variety of crops grown and planted there. Read the label to make sure the product is safe to use on your turf type and around the ornamentals in your landscape. The active ingredients listed below can be found under different brand names; for a partial list, see Table 3.
Table 3. Examples of Preemergent and Postemergent Herbicides with Brand Names.
HerbicideBrand nameHomeowner or professional use?For use on turf?
Preemergent
bensulide Bensumec, Pre-San homeowner yes
dithiopyr Dimension, Preen professional yes
oryzalin Surflan, Weed Impede homeowner yes
oxadiazon Ronstar professional yes
pendimethalin Pendulum, Pre-M, Scotts homeowner yes
prodiamine Barricade professional yes
trifluralin Vegetable and Ornamental Weeder homeowner no1
Postemergent
dithiopyr Dimension, Preen professional yes
fluazifop Poast, Grass Getter, Ornamec homeowner no
quinclorac Drive, Momentum, Trimec Crabgrass homeowner yes
sethoxydim plus oil Fusilade homeowner no
1 Warm-season turf (bermudagrass and St. Augustine) only. Will injure cool-season species.
Preemergent herbicides
Preemergent herbicides available for home gardeners for crabgrass control in warm-season grasses (bermudagrass and zoysiagrass) and cool-season grasses (Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue, tall fescue, and perennial ryegrass) include benefin, bensulide, pendimethalin, and trifluralin.
Professional pesticide applicators also can use dithiopyr, oxadiazon, and prodiamine. Oryzalin also is available for home gardeners, but it is for use in warm-season turf (bermudagrass and zoysiagrass) only.
Apply preemergent herbicides before crabgrass germinates, usually around the first of March. Many fertilizers contain a preemergent herbicide (weed and feed) so that the spring fertilization and preemergent treatments can be done at the same time. However, timing is critical, and weed and feed products often are applied at the wrong time.
Crabgrass has germinated as early as Jan. 30 in Bakersfield and Fresno on warm days. If a preemergent were applied at that time it could start to breakdown in 4 to 5 months, and a second application could be required. Follow label directions during application and make sure there is adequate overlap, as the herbicide is applied in the lawn to prevent strips of weeds from coming up.
Postemergent herbicides
There are few postemergent herbicides available for crabgrass control in lawns. Dithiopyr currently can be applied to home lawns but only by professional applicators. Dithiopyr provides good preemergent control of seeds and controls emerged crabgrass plants up to the third leaf stage.
Quinclorac often is sold in a ready-to-use spray bottle for the homeowner; however, crabgrass control is only partial, and some species have shown resistance to this product. Companies have stopped making products containing the active ingredients MSMA and DSMA, which have been used since the 1950s, and some companies are substituting quinclorac.
Use postemergent herbicides when crabgrass is small (in the 1- to 3-leaf stage). If the crabgrass is larger, it takes more herbicide to control it, and there is a greater chance of injury to the turfgrass.
Herbicides for ornamentals
In ornamental beds, home gardeners can use the preemergent herbicides benefin, oryzalin, and trifluralin to control crabgrass. Landscape professionals also can use oxadiazon, pendimethalin, and prodiamine. You can use these chemicals either before crabgrass has germinated or after you’ve removed the weed by hoeing or hand pulling but before another flush of germination.
Use a postemergent selective herbicide (fluazifop, quinclorac, or sethoxydim plus oil) to control crabgrass over or around most broadleaved ornamentals. You also can use nonselective herbicides such as glufosinate-ammonium, glyphosate, or pelargonic acid. Use nonselective herbicides with care to prevent them from harming desirable shrubs. All of these herbicides are available for use for home gardeners.
WARNING ON THE USE OF CHEMICALS


REFERENCES

DiTomaso, J. M. and E. A. Healy. 2006. Weeds of California and Other Western States. Oakland: Univ. Calif. Agric. Nat. Res. Publ. 3488.
Flint, M. L. and C. Reynolds. 2009. The UC Guide to Healthy Lawns. UC Statewide IPM Program.
Hart, S. 2002. Crabgrass and Goosegrass Control in Cool Season Turfgrass. Rutgers NJAES Coop. Ext. Bul. E223.
LeStrange, M. and C. Reynolds. 2004. Pest Notes: Weed Management in Lawns. Oakland: Univ. Calif. Agric. Nat. Res. Publ. 74113.
Reicher Z., C. Bigelow, A. Patton, and T. Voigt. 2006. Control of Crabgrass in Home Lawns. (220 KB, PDF) Purdue Ext./Univ. of Ill. Publ. AY-10-W IL-IN TW 33.
Stapleton, J. J., C. A. Wilen, and R. H. Molinar. 2008. Pest Notes: Soil Solarization for Gardens and Landscapes. Oakland: Univ. Calif. Agric. Nat. Res. Publ. 74145.
UC Statewide IPM Program. 2009. UC IPM Pest Management Guideline: Turfgrass. Oakland: Univ. Calif. Agric. Nat. Res. Publ. 3365-T.

(http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu)

CLIMBING PLANTS

Climbing plants


Tanaman yang merambat di dinding (Climbing Trees)



Image
Jika memiliki halaman terbuka dan dibatasi dengan tembok atau dinding yang tinggi disekitarnya, serasa halaman menjadi tampak gersang sehingga mengurangi keasrian pada halaman kita. Kesan kaku dan dingin pun semakin tampak jelas. Jelas ini memerlukan sebuah solusi untuk mengatasinya.
Apalagi ketika mempunyai lahan sempit di belakang atau disamping rumah, wah tampak sekali jauh dari keasrian.

DINDING TEMBOK yang kosong, walaupun sempit kadang sering membawa dilema. Jika dibiarkan polos-polos saja bisa membuat mata tak sehat karena silau, apalagi dengan warna dinding yang putih sehingga memantulkan sinar matahari dan terkesan panas dan gersang. Jangan khawatir masih banyak solusi untuk mengatasinya. Salah satu solusi dilahan yang sempit dan untuk menghilangkan kesan kaku dan dingin pada dinding atau tembok adalah tanamlah tanaman rambat. Nah selain bisa sebagai peneduh apabila di pasang pada pergola, tanaman rambat juga bisa difungsikan sebagai tanaman penutup dinding. Untuk itu jangan khawatir walaupun mempunyai lahan sempit dibelakang dan samping rumah kita masih bias memanfaatkan untuk membuat taman pada dinding dan nuansa hijau tetap dapat di hadirkan pada kebun dengan lahan terbatas.

Umumnya yang sering kita lihat tanaman yang dipakai untuk menutup dinding adalah memakai tanaman rambat yang tidak berbunga. Sebenarnya banyak sekali tanaman rambat berbunga yang dapat dipilih untuk menghiasinya sebagai tanaman penutup dinding. Keindahan tanaman rambat baik yang tidak berbunga maupun yang berbunga ada pada kerimbunannya, bentuk daunnya, serta warna dan rupa- rupa bunganya. Tanaman rambat biasanya memang dipakai untuk dinding pekarangan atau pergola dan pagar, tetapi untuk halaman yang tak terlalu luas, tanaman merambat bisa juga ditanam dalam pot. Ada juga yang menjadi berbeda jika tanaman rambat yang dipakai adalah dari jenis tanaman sayur atau buah-buahan. Selain menjadikan asri rumah kita tapi masih mempunyai manfaat lain yaitu kita dapat memakai hasilnya untuk dikonsumsi ketika sayuran dan buah-buahan merambat itu sudah berbuah dan telah masa panen.

CARA MENGHIAS DINDING DENGAN TANAMAN
Jika lokasi dinding atau tembok mendapat sinar matahari cukup atau penuh sepanjang hari. Maka dapat dipercantik dengan tanaman rambat penuh bunga atau sayuran rambat bahkan buah-buah dengan desain sarana rambat sesuai selera berupa teralis yang ditanam pad a dinding. Tanpa perlu menutup seluruh bidang tembok, tetapi satu dua buah teralis besi lebar 40 cm dan tinggi 1.20 m sudah cukup membikin pesona pada dinding. Gantungkan teralis besi sebagai sarana rambat dengan rongga ± 10 cm dari permukaan tembok agar tanaman leluasa menelusup ked an dari belakang. Tanaman itu sendiri akan tampil lebih cantik bila ditempatkan dalam bak khusus, permukaan tanahnya pun dapat ditutup dengan jenis tanaman lain. Bidang-bidang tanaman rambat ini kalau perlu dapat diulang hingga berderet panjang sesuai dengan lebar dinding.

MACAM MACAM TANAMAN RAMBAT BERBUNGA

1. Ipomea quamoclit
Tanaman ini memiliki bunga yang kecil-kecil. Jika dirambatkan maka bunganyanya tak terlalu terlihat.

2. Morning glory
Tanaman ini cepat tumbuh subur disertai bunga kecil-kecil biru keunguan. Rajin berbunga di udara panas. Batangnya kecil dan lentur dan merupakan versi mungil dari ipomea. Mudah melilit maka dengan waktu ± 2 minggu besi teralis dapat segera tertutup rapat dengan tanaman.

3. Clematis
Tanaman yang tergolong slow growing ini tumbuh optimal jika banyak mendapat sinar matahari. Warna bunga putih dan kecil-kecil bergerombol, harum ketika mekar. Berbatang kecil juga lentur. Rajinlah memotong tangkai bunga yang habis masa mekarnya, maka bunga
baru akan terus bermunculan.

4. Thunbergia putih dan ungu

Tanaman ini tumbuh dengan cepat. Bunga yang indah berwarna ungu atau putih menjadi daya tarik utamanya. Pertumbuhan bunganya menjuntai kebawah. Bunga tunbergia mekar pada pagi hari dan mulai menguncup menjelang sore.Daun berbetuk hati dengan warna hijau gelap. Daunnya lebat dapat segera menghijaukan taman hanya beberapa bulan setelah ditanam Jika kondisi lingkungan sesuai, tunbergia bisa tumbuh hingga sepanjang 8m.Tanaman rambat ini memerlukan cahaya matahari penuh agar rajin berbunga.

5. Mandevilla kuning
Kelebihan tanaman ini berbunga sepanjang waktu. Bunganya seperti terompet berwarna putih, pink, atau merah, menumpuk seperti mawar. Batang Mandevilla tumbuh menjuntai dan merambat, karena batangnya lemas. Disaat hujan maupun panas tanaman ini tetap berbunga. Mandevilla sangat menyukai udara panas yang membuat bunganya mudah bermunculan.

MACAM MACAM TANAMAN RAMBAT TIDAK BERBUNGA
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1. Syngonium
Pilihan tepat bila lokasi taman teduh dan agak lembap. Ragam bentuk corak dan warna daunnya cukup bervariasi. Bila dibiarkan tanpa penyangga, tanaman ini dapat melata di tanah. Memiliki akar yang muncul dari ruas-ruas batang. Syngonium adalah tanaman yang pada dasarnya merambat ke atas. Maka teralis besi pada dinding sebaiknya diberi celah 3-5 cm saja supaya akar-akar tanaman bebas menyentuh dinding tembok. Dan teralis berfungsi sebagai pembatas pertumbuhannya.

2. Stephanot Unggu dan Jingga
Agak beda dengan stephanot warna putih dan ungu. Pertumbuhan batang, cabang dan daunnya bias pesat diudara sejuk pegunungan. Kerompolan bunganya tidak membulat, tapi memanjan. Namun bila tidak rajin memangkasnya, kerimbunan tanaman ini akan menghalangi keunikan pergola. Jadi sebaiknya tanam stephanot jingga dalam pot agar pertumbuhannya terkendali.

3. Dolar kecil & besar
Sebaiknya dibuat merambat pada dinding yang permukaannya kasar agar akar dapat menempel kuat. Dan sebaiknya jangan dirambatkan pada dinding yang sudah dipoles cat.

MACAM SAYURAN DAN BUAH-BUAHAN
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1. Kacang panjang
Tanaman ini merupakan tanaman semak, menjalar dan semusim dengan tinggi kurang lebih 2,5 m. Batang tanaman ini tegak, silindris, lunak, berwarna hijau dengan permukaan licin.

2. Manisa
Tumbuhan ini merambat dan biasa dibudidayakan di pekarangan, biasanya di dekat kolam. Buah menggantung dari tangkai. Daunnya berbentuk mirip segi tiga dan permukaannya berbulu.

3. Pare
Pare tergolong tanaman semak, menjalar dan semusim. Biasanya ditanam di lahan pekarangan/tegalan/sawah bekas padi sebagai tanaman sela pada musim kemarau. Buah terasa pahit namun mengandung banyak manfaat.

4. Timun
Type pertumbuhan tanaman merambat . Warna buah hijau. Rasanya renyah dan manis. Pecabangan produktif banyak berbuah lebat. Umur panen 30-35 hst. Cocok ditanam di dataran rendah - menengah

5. Waluh panjang
Waluh panjang. Type pertumbuhan tanaman merambat, berbatang besar dan berdaun lebar. Diameter buah 15-17 cm dan panjang 70-80 cm. Produktif dan dapat dipanen umur ± 65 hst. Cocok di dataran rendah-tinggi.

6. Anggur
Tanaman buah ini juga merambat, mempunyai akar kuat dan batang lentur mudah melilit. Tanaman buah ini sangat menyukai udara panas dan memerlukan cahaya matahari penuh sepanjang hari.
(http://www.tabloidhunianku.com)



WATER CREEM 
( Tanaman Rambat Dinding )

  
1.     1. General
      Water Creem merupakan salah satu tanaman yang sifatnya merambat, tanaman ini berdaun kecil dan mempunyai akar yang kuat menempel di tembok atau bahan yang ada di bawahnya. Tanaman ini biasanya banyak digunakan orang sebagai pelapis tembok yang belum dihaluskan, sehingga tembok terkesan alami dan cerah dipandang mata ( hijau ). Tanaman yang satu ini banyak ditemukan diperumahan – perumahan karena dilihat dari segi manfaatnya yang tidak sedikit.

2.     2. Perawatan
     Water creem bukanlah kategori tanaman yang susah untuk ditanam, begitu juga dengan perawatannya. Untuk tahap awal, usahakan tanam bagian bawahnya dengan baik dan kaklau Anda ingin merambatkan tanaman ini di tembok, maka ujung tanaman ( bagian atas ) tanaman water creem harus ditempelkan di tembok sampai keluar akar dari batang tengah sehingga tanaman bisa /kuat unutk menempel di tembok. Aga tanaman ini merata usahakan sering memangkas bagian ujung tanaman agar tumbuh beberapa cabang tunas baru yang nantinya akan tumbuh merata sambil kita arahkan ke arah yang kita inginkan. Adapun mengenai penyiraman kondisikan layaknya tanaman biasa, dan untuk pemupukan agar tanaman ini cepat tumbuh cukup gunakan pupuk kandang. 

3      3.Manfaat
Banyak sekali manfaat yang kita dapatkan dari tanaman water creem, antara lain 
  • Umumnya di perumahan tanaman ini biasa dipakai sebagai penutup tembok yang belum diratakan, sehingga terkesan tembok alami dan dapat sebagai sumber oksigen yang berasal dari daun – daun water creem yang padat dan saling bergerombol.
  • Dapat digunakan sebagai hiasan dinding halaman rumah baik depan maupun belakang, karena tanaman ini dapat dibentuk – bentuk sesuai dengan keinginan kita ( bisa berbentuk huruf / gambar ).
  •  Sebagai Sumber Oksigen dari Daun – daunnya yang padat.
  • Sebagai penguat tembok, karena akar – akarnya yang masuk ke tembok sehingga tembok menjadi kuat dan tidak ambrol.
  
Bibit Water Creem dalam Polybag





















Bibit Water Creem






Bibit Water Creem 1 Bulan

Bibit Water Creem Siap Tanam





























Untaian Tanaman Merambat Penyegar Rumah
Rumahurban.com: Percantik pagar atau pergola Anda dengan tanaman rambat dengan bunga-bunga cantik. Selain daun hijau serta bunganya yang indah, tanaman ini sangat suka panas, sehingga tak sulit ditanam di negara kita yang kaya akan sinar matahari ini.

Pilih tanaman rambat yang cantik agar pagar, pergola, atau tiang gazebo rumah Anda tampil lebih atraktif. Selain sebagai penghias, tanaman rambat memberi aksentuasi khas pada taman. Jenisnya pun amat beragam.

Tanaman rambat dikategorikan atas dua jenis, yakni benalu dan tanaman yang ditanam. Benalu adalah sejenis tanaman liar yang tumbuh di pohon-pohon dan mengambil makanan dari “induknya”. Selain di pohon dapat juga ditemukan menempel di dinding. Misalnya daun dolar, yaitu daun yang biasa merambat di dinding seukuran jempol tangan, jempol kaki, atau bola pingpong.

Bila ingin “menghias” atau agar dinding luar lebih “empuk” dengan cara yang sederhana tanpa perawatan ekstra, dapat menggunakan benalu. Caranya gampang dan sederhana. Cukup dengan meletakkan tanah di bawah dinding setinggi 10 sentimeter atau polybag di pinggir dinding, serta memakukan tiga paku ukuran sekitar satu inci ke dinding yang disusun berjarak sebagai penyangganya. Perawatannya sangat sederhana. Hanya menjaga agar rambatannya tidak menutupi area yang tidak dikehendaki.

Terlepas dari kemudahan merawatnya, tanaman rambat jenis benalu sering memberikan pengaruh buruk pada dinding. Bila kualitas dinding tidak bagus, akan membuat dinding lapuk dan cepat rusak. Selain juga dinding jadi kotor, cat terkelupas karena daunnya yang memiliki akar.

Sementara itu, jenis yang lain adalah tanaman yang ditanam. Yang seperti ini dapat ditanami bougenvill, alamanda yang memiliki bunga aneka warna, tanaman anggur, dan teh-tehan. Untuk jenis-jenis ini lebih cocok disandingkan dengan pagar, pergola, dan gazebo.

Namun berbeda dengan benalu, tanaman rambat yang ditanam ini perlu perawatan khusus, termasuk pemberian pupuk dan perhatian ekstra lainnya.

Tak Lekang Waktu

Jenis tanaman rambat yang tak lekang oleh waktu adalah Bunga Terompet (Mandevilla sanderi), Thunbergia (Thunbergia grandifloa), Alamanda (Allmanda cathartica), Nona Makan Sirih (Clerodendrum Thomsoniae), Sirih Gading, dan Malaithong.

Khusus untuk Mandevilla, permintaan pasarnya semakin banyak. Tanaman rambat asal Florida, Amerika Serikat ini berwarna putih, merah jambu, atau merah. Ada yang berdaun tumpuk, ada pula yang tidak. Tanaman ini unik, karena tidak pernah berhenti berbunga. Bisa bertahan sampai 3-4 tahun, tidak seperti tanaman semusim yang enam bulan tumbuh, kemudian mati. Selain merambat, Mandevilla juga bisa menjuntai karena batangnya lemas. Bahkan ditanam begitu saja pun akan tumbuh. Tak keran jika Mandevilla punya daya tarik sendiri.

Mandevilla sangat menyukai panas, yang membuat bunganya gampang bermunculan. "Agar mendapatkan bunga yang cantik tentu saja harus memperhatikan perawatannya. Seperti pemberian pupuk, penyemprotan hama penyakit dengan pestisida. Media yang dipakai adalah cocopit (serbuk kelapa) dan sekam bakar," jelas Ricky Hadimulya, pemilik Hara Nursery. Akan sangat baik jika ditanam di pot. Biasanya kalau di tanah banyak cacing yang bisa merusak tanah dan membuat akar jadi busuk.

Agar merambatnya lebih bagus, pot dan media harus diganti dengan yang lebih besar. "Awalnya, sih, banyak yang bilang susah mengurus tanaman ini karena cepat mati. Padahal, gampang, kok, merawatnya," imbuh Ricky meyakinkan. (nova, global/RU)


Gambar Tanaman Hias | Jenis Tanaman Hias Merambat

Untuk seri 1 tanaman merambat saya tampilkan tanaman hias sebagai tanaman pagar dan tanaman pergola sbb : jenis-jenis  bunga  thunbergia,  passiflora,  clematis,  ipomoea, lathyrus, mandevilla dan bignonia.
Gambar Jenis Jenis Tanaman Hias Merambat
Gambar Jenis Jenis Tanaman Hias Merambat
gambar-jenis-bunga-mandevilla-sanderi
Gambar Jenis Bunga Mandevilla Sanderi
Gambar / photo diatas adalah jenis2 tanaman hias Mandevilla sanderi atauDipladenia sanderi,  dan dikenal juga dgn nama Brazilian jasmine.   Mandevilla Sanderi umumnya berwarna merah orange.  Jenis mandevilla yang lain  punya berbagai warna lain spt pink, merah tua , peach yaitu dari :Mandevilla boliviensis,  Mandevilla dodsonii,  Mandevilla equatorialis, Mandevilla jamesonii seperti yang terlihat pada photo berikut
Gambar jenis tanaman Thunbergia
gambar-jenis- jenis tanaman bunga-Mandevilla, spp
Gambar Jenis2 Bunga Passiflora / Passion Fruit / Markisa
Gambar Jenis2 Bunga Passiflora / Passion Fruit / Markisa
Tanaman passiflora ini ada banyak  jenis seperti tampak pada foto di atas.  Tanaman keluarga passion fruit atau buah markisa ini paling baik digunakan untuk menghias pagar dan pergola karena gampang tumbuh, berbunga kontinyu dan punya variasi warna dan bentuk yang beragam.
gambar-jenis-bunga-ipomoea tricolor
gambar-jenis-bunga-ipomoea tricolor
Bunga keluarga Ipomoea (sekeluarga dengan tanaman ubi jalar dan kangkung) dengan bentuk bunga terompet yang biasanya terbuka dipagi hari dan menguncup di sore hari.  JUga bagus untuk pergola dengan bunga yg lebat dan kontinyu, perawatan yg gampang, jenis bunga dan warna yang macam macam
Gambar jenis-jenis bunga merambat :clematis
Gambar jenis-jenis bunga merambat :clematis
Nah ini bunga merambat favorite saya.  Warna dan bentuk beragam, cantik digunakan untuk merambat di pagar, pergola, trellis.  Bisa juga dikombinasikan dengan tanaman mawar merambat (lihat photo di atas bagian bawah no 2 dari kiri).  Jenis clematis antara lain : clematis alpina,clematis armandii (yaela namanya si armand lagi mandi kali yak hehehehe), clematis jackmanii, clematis niobe, dll
Gambar jenis bunga merambat : Bignonia
Gambar jenis bunga merambat : Bignonia
Bignonia juga cocok untuk mempercantik pagar dan pergola, warnanya yang orange, kuning dan merah cerah sangat cantik untuk dikombinasikan denagn tanaman cemara hias (dibiarkan menjalar di pohon cemara).  Kami di Perancis menyebutnya Terompette de Jericho.
Jenis jenis bunga Lathyrus
Jenis jenis bunga Lathyrus
Bunga Lathyrus atau sweet peas ini banyak jenis dan warna dan jenis yang bunganya harum yaitu : Lathyrus odorata.  Merupakan tanaman semusim, banyak menghiasi pagar rumah saya.  Walau tanaman semusim tapi biji yang dibiarkan jatuh ke tanah membuat tanaman ini selalu tumbuh dan berbunga kembali di musim semi.
Gambar Jenis2 bunga Thunbergia
Gambar Jenis2 bunga Thunbergia
Photo tanaman merambat di atas adalah tanaman Thunbergia.  Jenis dan warnanya juga banyak, al : Thunbergia grandiflora (bunga biru) Thunbergia grandiflora alba  (bunga putih), Thunbergia Alata (bunga kuning), Thunbergia gregorii (bunga orange) dan Thunbergia mysorensis  (bunga kuning merah)
OK cukup segitu dulu, ntar saya sambung lagi di seri ke 2.

Gambar Bunga Tanaman Hias Merambat seri 2

Koleksi tanaman hias merambat yg akan mempercantik pergola, trelis  dan pagar anda : Flame of irian, Clerodendrum, Wisteria, Petrea volubilis, Jade Vine,Pyrostegia venusta dan Antigonon leptopus.  Ke 7 jenis tanaman ini saya kelompokkan dalam satu artikel karena jenis bunganya yg berkelompok dengan tangkai yg menjurai.  Berbunga sangat banyak, perawatanpun gak susah.    Pilihan warna bunga beragam : merah atau orange menyala, hijau, pink, putih, maupun ungu.  Silakan dipilih dipilih :d
1.  Flame of Irian ( Mucuna novo-guineensis  / Mucuna novaeguinensis)
Tanaman Bunga Flame of Irian
Bunga Flame of Irian-Mucuna novo-guineensis - New Guinea Creeper
Yg saya tau nama yg dikenal secara international adalah Flame of The Forest atau New Guinea Creeper atau Red Jade Vine.  Mucuna novo-guineensis atau synonimnya Mucuna kraetkei Warb atau Mucuna lenticellosa K. Schum. adalah jenis genus Mucuna yg berasalah dari papua (irian jaya dan papua new guinea) sedangkan yg berasal dari amerika selatan di sebut Mucuna bennettii
2.  Jade Vine ( Strongylodon macrobotrys )
Jade Vine - Strongylodon macrobotrys
Jade Vine - Strongylodon macrobotrys
Jade Vine mempunyai bentuk bunga yg sama dengan flame of irian tapi berwarna hijau jade, asalnya dari Philipina.
3.  Wisteria / Glycine (Wisteria Sinensis)
Tanaman Hias Wisteria - Glycine - Blauregen - Blauweregen
Tanaman Hias Wisteria - Glycine - Blauregen - Blauweregen
Wisteria mengeluarkan bunga di awal musim semi, sekitar bulan april sampai mei.  Saat pertama hanya bunga yg keluar dari cabang2, tanpa daun sekalipun, hanya bunga yg menggantung dengan ceria membuat pergolaku sangat semarak.  nah sekitar seminggu atau 10 hari kemudian baru mulai muncul daun muda.  Wisteria dengan 2 pilihan warna : ungu dan putih (wisteria alba)
4.Petrea  volubilis
Tanaman Bunga Merambat Petrea-volubilis
Tanaman Bunga Merambat Petrea-volubilis
Petrea bunganya mirip mirip wisteria.  Petrea volubilis atau Petrea kahautiana, asalanya dari mexico dan amerika tengah
5. Coral Vine (Antigonon leptopus )
Tanaman Bunga Merambat Antigonon leptopus
Tanaman Bunga Merambat Antigonon leptopus
Antigonon juga asalnya dari Mexico dan negara amerika tengah.  Pilihan yg tepat untuk membuat nuansa romantis pink di pagar dan pergola anda
6.Glorybower / bagflower / bleeding-heart - Clerodendrum thomsoniae & speciosum
Tanaman Merambat Clerodendrum : thomsoniae & speciosum
Tanaman Merambat Clerodendrum : thomsoniae & speciosum
Pilih tanaman ini bila anda ingin suasana teduh dan damai dari warna bunganya yg putih.  Ada banyak jenis Clerodendrum, tapi akan saya bahas di artikel lain.
7. Jalaran api (Pyrostegia venusta )

Jalaran Api - Pyrostegia venusta
Jalaran Api - Pyrostegia venusta
Rangkaian bunga kompak dengan warna jingga yang menohok bagaikan sambaran api, sangat cocok untuk membuat pagar atau pergola anda tampil beda.  Perawatan mudah.
Pyrostegia venustamasuk dalam kelompokBignoniaceae yg sudah saya bahas di artikel tanaman merambat sebelumnya.

Sunday 5 August 2012

COMPOST FROM THE GRASS CLIPPING

GRASS CLIPPING FOR COMPOSTING

Since refuse disposal costs have dramatically
increased, and some landfills no longer accept
grass clippings, many individuals and governmental agencies are seeking alternatives for disposal of
clippings.  During the maximum grass growing
period, the municipal refuse load in some New
Jersey suburban communities may contain nearly
one-third grass clippings.  Collected clippings
become anaerobic very quickly because of their
high demand for oxygen.  After becoming anaerobic they emit strongly unpleasant odors.  Therefore, grass clippings (in quantity) are difficult to
handle and to process.
From our own experience with the handling
and disposal of grass clippings, and discussions
with others such as lawn care professionals, we
suggest considering the following methods to
reduce landfilling:

1. RETURN TO LAWN — It is most desirable to leave grass clippings uncollected on the
lawn so that they are recycled, contributing to soil
organic matter and supplying part of the fertilizer
needs of the lawn.  Adopt a mowing schedule to
keep clippings short enough to filter through
growing grass and not remain as a mat on top of
the lawn.  Research and experience indicate that
only 1/3 of the grass length should be removed
during mowing.  Never allow the lawn grass to
double its height between mowings.  This approach
not only eliminates clipping collection and disposal
problems, but also can contribute to improvement
of the lawn.

Clippings are not a cause of thatch in lawns.
Rather, thatch is formed primarily from a dense
accumulation of grass roots and stemmy material.
Returning clippings along with proper mowing
frequency will not increase disease problems.
Use caution when removing collection bags
from mowers.  Some machines are not designed to
operate safely without a bag or other attachment in
place.  If you are unsure, check with your equipment supplier.
2. GARDEN MULCH — Grass clippings can
be used as a garden mulch.  To minimize any
tendency to protect slugs, clippings can be dried in
the sun for a day prior to being used in this way.
Clippings can be spread on garden soil to check
weed growth, reduce soil spattering and crusting,
moderate soil temperatures, etc.  As a precaution,
do not use grass clippings from herbicide-treated
lawns until after two grass cuttings have been
made.
3. SOIL INCORPORATION — Clippings
can serve as a source of organic matter for soil
improvement when incorporated into the garden.
4. BACKYARD COMPOSTING — Grass
clippings can be composted, particularly when
incorporated into a backyard leaf composting pile.
However, grass has a high nitrogen content, a
much higher demand for oxygen than leaves, and a
tendency to mat, thereby greatly reducing the
passage of oxygen.  Composting piles containing

grass clippings thus readily become anaerobic.
This, in turn, can produce strong, unpleasant odors.
These odors are particularly noticeable when the
pile is disturbed.
Because of these problems, grass clippings
should not be composted alone, but rather mixed
with composting leaves.  The partially decayed
leaves which now (6-9 months after leaf fall) have
a low demand for oxygen, will serve as a bulking
agent permitting more oxygen to reach the grass.
Grass, which is high in nitrogen, will provide a
more rapid decomposition of the remaining leaves
as long as it remains under aerobic conditions.
Grass clippings will also contribute to a better end
product (higher nitrogen content) than that obtained from composting leaves alone.  One must be
aware, however, that an excess of damp grass in
the pile will soon become anaerobic, produce very
unpleasant odors, and reduce the rate of decomposition.  The objective is to keep the material
aerobic.  Also, to ensure that excess nitrogen is not
given off as ammonia, do not add more than 1 part
fresh grass clippings to 3 parts partially composted
leaves.
The resulting compost can be used as a soil
amendment, as a mulch for gardens, flower or
shrub beds, or as a potting medium.
5. MUNICIPAL COMPOSTING — Some
grass clippings can be incorporated into a municipal leaf composting operation.  However, problems
that may be experienced with backyard grass
composting could be greatly magnified at a municipal facility.  Even grass stored for one day or
less in plastic bags or the back of a lawn maintenance pick-up truck may emit very unpleasant
odors when being unloaded at the site.  For this

reason, grass clippings are banned at many leaf
composting facilities, unless they are very isolated.
Research is continuing in this area, but other
problems include the high cost of collection and an
inadequate supply of leaves for the amount of
clippings.
Partially composted leaves should be mixed
with the grass in a 3:1 ratio, or more.  Because the
leaves have already decomposed by the time the
grass comes to the site, however, this means the
ratio actually collected must be at least 6:1.  For
most towns this would be possible only if most of
the grass clippings are handled directly by residents
on their own property.
6. CLIPPING REDUCTION — Fertilizing
and watering above the requirements of the grasses
may be more detrimental than beneficial to the
lawn.  One of the effects is increased production of
clippings.  (Another is potential ground or surface
water pollution.)  Judicious and proper use of
fertilizer and water can provide an attractive lawn
with a reduction in the costs, effort, susceptibility
to disease, and amount of clippings produced.  A
fertilization program should emphasize fertilizing
the lawn in the fall season rather than in the spring.
This can be effective not only in reducing the
amount of clippings produced, but also in contributing to a better lawn.
Two related fact sheets:  “Backyard Leaf
Composting” (FS074) and “Using Leaf Compost”
(FS117), and assistance with procedures covered
above, may be obtained from the Rutgers Cooperative Extension office in your county.  The telephone number appears under County Government
in your local phone directory.

Peter F. Strom, Ph.D., Associate Professor of Environmental Science; James A. Murphy, Ph.D., Extension Specialist in
 Turfgrass Management; and Henry W. Indyk, Ph.D., Extension Specialist Emeritus in Turfgrass Management
(http://ce-drupal01.rutgers.edu)






HOW TO MAINTENANCE TURF & GRASS

TURF AND GRASS PROBLEM 

Diagnosing Turfgrass Problems

The cause of turfgrass damage is often difficult to determine if considerable time has elapsed between damage and diagnosis. Damage is often blamed on disease or insects when there is no sound basis for such a diagnosis. A careful diagnosis involves analysis of climatic and environmental conditions, along with the management program followed. It is important to know what fertilizers, insecticides, fungicides, or herbicides have been applied, the amounts used, and the time and method of application.

Causes:

Mowing

Height of Cut - Mowing is one of the most abused and least understood turfgrass management practices. Kentucky bluegrass and fine-leaved fescues should not be cut lower than 1½ to 2 inches. Shorter mowing reduces leaf surface (the plant’s food manufacturing factory) to such a degree that the plant may have to draw food from its root reserves to initiate new growth. Repeated defoliation reduces the root system, and the plant will be weakened and unable to cope with adverse weather conditions.
Frequency of Cut - Infrequent mowing, which has become increasingly common with the popularity of the rotary mower, may remove excessive amounts of clippings at each mowing. This may shock plants, causing depleted root reserves and general weakening. Normally, no more than one-fourth to one-third of the total leaf surface should be removed at each mowing. Excessive clippings left on the turf may injure or kill turf by smothering it. Hot, humid conditions under these clippings are ideal for disease development.
Dull Mowers - Turf may have a gray to brown cast following mowing. In most cases this discoloration can be attributed to dull rotary mowers, although reel-type mowers may cause the same kind of damage. Basically, the discoloration is due to tearing, splitting, or shredding of the tips of the grass blades. Always keep any mower sharp and properly adjusted.
Scalping - Most scalping occurs when attempts are made to cut steep terraces crossways rather than up and down the terrace. Scalping may also occur on poorly graded areas where one wheel of the mower may drop into a surface depression, resulting in a closer cut on that side of the mower.
Washboard Effect - Turfgrass areas regularly cut with power mowers sometimes develop wave-like ridges running at right angles to the direction of mowing. This washboard effect may be prevented by regularly changing the direction of mowing. Alternating directions of cut will partially control runners of creeping grasses and help prevent grain and thatch.

Chemicals

Fertilizer Skips - Although fertilizer skips do not constitute actual damage, they do result in a very unsightly appearance. The fertilized area will be a brilliant green, whereas the unfertilized area may vary from pale green to a chlorotic yellow color. Since fertilizer materials seldom move laterally, every effort should be made to distribute the material uniformly over the entire area.
Fertilizer Burn - Any type of fertilizer may cause fertilizer burn if applied in excessive amounts or when grass blades are wet. Soluble forms of nitrogen and potash are most likely to cause serious burn. To avoid this problem, always apply fertilizer in recommended amounts when grass is dry; if at all possible water thoroughly after application.
Chlorosis - Turf areas may become pale green-yellow, and plant growth may be somewhat stunted. In most cases this chlorotic condition is due to lack of nitrogen. If a nitrogen fertilizer application does not correct this condition, it is very likely that the cause is iron deficiency. An application of iron sulfate or chelated iron on turf showing iron deficiency will result in a greening of the turf within a few hours after application.
Herbicide Injury - Some weed killers used to control specific weeds may damage turfgrasses if applied at rates exceeding recommendations. Unfortunately, many people feel that if “X” ounces of material per 1,000 square feet is recommended, “2X” ounces of material per 1,000 square feet will do a better job. The result — turfgrass injury or death. Always apply herbicides accurately at the manufacturer's recommended rate.

Moisture

Irrigation - Irrigating a turf area at a rate greater than the soil's infiltration capacity may have deleterious effects. This type of watering causes run-off and wastes one of our most expensive commodities — water. More important, a thin surface crust may form. This crust will impede the entrance of nutrients, insecticides, air, and water into the soil. Such a crust also favors development of weeds such as moss and algae.
Turfgrasses may also be damaged by frequent light watering. Frequent shallow watering may keep upper soil layers near a constant saturation point. This condition encourages shallow rooting and promotes weak turf which is susceptible to disease and insect attack as well as damage from traffic. For most turfgrass areas watering deeply only when plants show signs of wilting is a sound watering program and a big step forward in the development of healthy, vigorous turfgrasses.
Localized Dry Spots - Dead or injured spots often develop in turf areas because of insufficient moisture, even though surrounding turf shows no drought injury. Buried debris such as stumps, stones, bricks, or gravel may result in a thin layer of soil overlaying the area. This soil layer has a low water-holding capacity and dries out very quickly. In other cases a large amount of thatch may act as a thatched grass roof preventing water infiltration into the soil.
Foot Printing of Turf - In hot weather heavy foot printing of Kentucky bluegrass or fine-leaved fescue turf usually indicates that the turf has reached the wilting point and must be watered to maintain green color. When irrigating, wet the soil deeply; then refrain from watering until the turf again approaches the wilting point.
A different type of foot printing may be observed in late winter or early spring. The turf may be injured if it is walked on when grass blades are frozen or heavily frosted. Under these conditions walking may rupture frozen plant cells and injure or kill the plants.
Desiccation - Often referred to as winterkill, desiccation is most likely to occur during late winter months. Damage is most prevalent on high, exposed areas which frequently hold little snow cover and are subjected to strong, drying winds. In late winter the soil often thaws to a depth of 1 to 2 inches; air temperatures are favorable for grass growth, but roots imbedded in still frozen ground are unable to take up enough water (if any) to satisfy the plant's transpiration rate. The turf, therefore, dies from lack of moisture.
Septic Tanks - Turf often appears burned out over septic tank areas. This may occur when the septic tank is not buried deep enough to allow several feet or more of soil over the tank. Consequently, the soil dries out quickly. Drying is often accelerated by heat from decomposition in the tank.

Undesirable Plants

Poa annua - Annual bluegrass (Poa annua) is normally considered an annual grass, although some plants may survive longer than one growing season. Annual bluegrass has a light yellow-green color and is characterized by prolific seed production in the spring. Regardless of height of cut, this plant will develop seeheads. Due to the great number of seedheads, areas heavily infested with annual bluegrass take on a gray-white cast in the spring. Annual bluegrass is shallow-rooted and cannot withstand high temperatures combined with either severe drought or saturated soil. Under these conditions the grass may die in a few hours. Unfortunately, because seed produced in the spring has been deposited in the soil, a new crop will germinate in fall or late winter. Thus, an annual bluegrass-infested turf may appear beautiful in spring and late fall but may be unsightly in summer. Provided the infestation does not exceed 40 percent of the total turf population, annual bluegrass can be reduced by applying bensulide (Betasan or Pre-San) according to manufacturer's recommendations for two consecutive years. After this, no applications should be made for one to two years.
Bentgrass - Management practices for bentgrass (which is often found in commercial seed mixtures) and Kentucky bluegrass are not compatible. Bentgrass requires close, frequent mowing, frequent fertilization and irrigation, periodic topdressing, vertical mowing, and a regular preventive fungicide program. Fluffiness of the turf is usually associated with a high bentgrass population. Unless bentgrass is managed intensively, it will develop a thatch layer quite rapidly. Once a turf has become infested with bentgrass, the only solution is to kill all vegetation with a grass weed killer and reestablish the lawn to desirable grasses.
Crabgrass - Although many individuals regard crabgrass as the number one turf problem, there are a number of effective preemergence chemicals to control it. Apply these materials in the spring approximately two weeks prior to expected crabgrass germination. Crabgrass normally germinates when soil temperatures near the surface reach 60°F. DCPA (Dacthal), benefin (Balan), bensulide (Betasan or Pre-San), and siduron (Tupersan) are materials recommended for pre-emergence control. Restrict the use of DCPA and benefin to Kentucky bluegrass turf. Remember that crabgrass seeds may lie dormant in the soil for many years, requiring a long-range concentrated control program. The publication “Crabgrass Can Be Controlled”, available in your county agricultural Extension office, contains more information on crabgrass control.
Tall Fescue - A coarse-bladed perennial grass having excellent wearing qualities, tall fescue is used extensively for play fields, utility turf, and other areas subjected to heavy use and/or minimum maintenance. For best results it must be seeded alone at rates of 8 to 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Tall fescue is often a component in poor quality turf seed mixtures. When used in mixtures, individual plants may stool out, smothering other grasses and making mowing difficult. There is no selective chemical means of eradicating these plants. Control tall fescue by hand digging or spot treatment with a non-selective contact herbicide followed by reseeding the treated area.
Poa trivialis - Rough bluegrass is often a contaminant in Kentucky bluegrass seedlots, especially in seed imported from Europe. In established turf it appears as light green patches with the grass blade having a shiny, glass-like appearance. In open sun, it normally dies back severely during hot weather but may recover somewhat during cool weather where stolons are protected. Rough bluegrass is excellent for use in wet, shaded areas but should not be seeded in open, sunny areas.
Nimblewill (Muhlenbergia) - A weed grass often mistaken for desirable turfgrass especially in the spring, nimblewill develops in patches, spreading by decumbent stems. It normally turns brown much earlier in the fall and in spring turns green later than desirable turfgrasses. Under mowing it often becomes quite stemmy, and thrives best under conditions of low fertility. There is no selective chemical control, but a good over-all maintenance program (lime, fertilizer, pest control) will help keep down infestation.
Clover - Many people feel clover is desirable in a turf area, but turf specialists and those involved in maintaining specialized turf areas such as golf courses or athletic fields do not. Clover often segregates into unsightly patches, is slippery and provides poor footing, has low wear resistance, may be severely winter-damaged, and forms seasonal white blossoms which interrupt the continuity of the turf and attrack bees. To eliminate clover, apply MCPP or dicamba (Banvel).
Broadleaf Weeds - Weeds such as dandelion, broadleaf plantain, and buckhorn (narrowleaf plantain) are easily controlled with 2,4-D. More difficult to control broadleaf weeds such as knotweed, chickweeds, heal-all, henbit, stitchwort, and sheep sorrel may require the use of 2,4-D plus dicamba. Some, but not all, species of Veronica may be controlled with this combination.
Moss and Algae - Moss and algae seldom invade a dense, healthy turfgrass area. Infestations are usually associated with low soil fertility, poor drainage, high soil acidity, improper watering, too much shade, soil compaction, or a combination of these factors. Diagnosis of the cause or causes of infestation followed by corrective measures is the best control.

Disease and Fungus

Melting Out - A number of leafspot diseases are particularly severe on many Kentucky bluegrasses and fine-leaved fescues. The most obvious disease symptoms are circular to elongated spots on the leaves. These spots have brown or straw-colored centers and prominent reddish-black to brown borders. Leaves, stems, crowns, and roots may be affected, often causing considerable thinning of the turf. These diseases first occur on the leaves during cool, wet weather. If not checked by changes in weather conditions or application of chemical fungicides, the disease may move into the plants' crowns and roots, causing considerable damage throughout the entire summer. For recommendations on leafspot control contact your county agricultural Extension office.
Fusarium Blight - Some Kentucky bluegrass varieties are extremely susceptible to Fusarium blight, especially if nitrogen availability is high. The disease occurs most frequently during hot weather when the plants are under moisture stress. Circular to irregular patches of light green grass, 2 to 8 inches across are the first symptoms. These patches quickly turn to a reddish-brown, then to tan, and finally to a light straw color. Plants normally die during the reddish-brown stage. Apply systemic fungicides immediately after first symptoms appear to reduce disease severity.
Powdery Mildew - In late summer, powdery mildew often develops on Kentucky bluegrasses, especially Merion Kentucky bluegrass growing in shaded areas. Although the white powdery substance deposited on the leaves is unsightly, it normally does not cause serious damage unless it persists for a long time. Powdery mildew can be controlled with Acti-dione fungicide applications, although the best solution is to plant more shade-tolerant grasses in these areas.
Stripe Smut - Although it attacks many turfgrasses, stripe smut is most severe on some varieties of Kentucky bluegrass, especially Merion Kentucky bluegrass. It is caused by a systemic fungus that attacks grass internally, in contrast to most turfgrass disease fungi that attack plants externally. Initially, stripe smut-infected plants appear light green to yellow-green and soon develop light green to gray streaks on leaves and sheaths. As the fungus develops, the epidermis over these streaks ruptures, releasing a mass of black smut spores. The leaves then split and curl and eventually die. Most severe damage usually occurs during cool periods of spring and fall. Apply preventive fungicides in late fall or early spring to reduce disease severity in the spring.
Red Thread - A common fungus disease that normally is most severe on fine-leaved fescues, red thread may also attack Kentucky bluegrasses, ryegrasses, bentgrasses, and some warm season grasses. In early morning or when humidity is very high, the grass plants may be covered with a gelatinous mass of pink mycelium that mats the leaves together. As this gelatinous mass dries, hardened pink to red threads of the mycelium may protrude from the leaf tips. Infected leaves first appear water-soaked, rapidly fading to a bleached tan as they die. Red thread usually occurs when temperatures are 60° to 75°F and humidity is high. Red thread is also most severe under conditions of low fertility. Fungicides coupled with adequate lime and fertilizer will control this disease.
Rust - Rust appears as reddish-brown to black pustules on grass blades or stems. When severely rusted turf areas are walked on or mowed, a cloud of red powder composed of spores may arise. Rust is often found on Merion Kentucky bluegrass during late summer months. Although unsightly, rust normally will not cause serious damage if the turf has been well fertilized.
Fairy Ring - Fairy rings may appear as mushroom rings or as dark green rings of vigorously growing turf varying from a few inches to many feet in diameter. Fairy ring is caused by fungi living on decaying organic matter such as stumps, logs, or scrap lumber from building construction buried in the soil. The fungus grows out radially. Nitrogen from the mycelium of the fungus is released, stimulating growth and causing a dark green ring. During dry periods this stimulated succulent growth may die from lack of moisture. There is no effective chemical control. During dry periods keep the fairy ring well watered to prevent loss of turf from moisture stress.
Slime Molds - Slime molds are nonparasitic fungi that live on decaying soil organic matter. During wet summer periods these fungi develop on grass blades, forming yellow to gray jelly-like structures which later mature into gray to black spore masses. These masses may damage the grass by shading or smothering. Normally, slime mold will disappear during dry weather. Brushing infested areas with a stiff broom will at least temporarily remove the unsightly condition. If wet weather favorable to slime mold persists, control the mold by applying any good turf fungicide.
Toadstools and Mushrooms - Heavy infestations of toadstools and/or mushrooms often occur in turfgrass areas. These are saprophytic fungi living on dead organic matter in the soil. They are most prevalent where trees have been removed without complete removal of the tree roots. There is no adequate control, and these organisms will continue to appear, especially during wet periods, as long as there is adequate organic matter in the soil.
Snowmolds - Gray snowmold, a true snowmold, occurs under snow cover. The affected grass forms a mat or crust of leaves a few inches to many feet in diameter and may show a white to gray mold with tiny black fruiting bodies (sclerotia) imbedded in the leaf tissue. Thorough brushing or raking to break this crust usually results in grass recovery. Pink snowmold occurs when the temperature is approximately 40 to 60°F and abundant moisture is available. Pink snowmold is more damaging than gray snowmold and often results in death of the turf. To control snowmolds fungicides must be applied in late fall or early winter and again in early spring. Consult your county agricultural Extension office for the latest recommended control materials.

Insects

Chinch Bugs - Yellowish spots that rapidly turn into brown, dead areas may be an indication of chinch bug damage. Chinch bugs are sucking insects which concentrate in limited areas and feed on the plants until they extract all available juice. The bugs then work outward from the centers of infestation, destroying grass as they advance. Chinch bugs develop best in dry weather, and injury is always more severe in hot, dry summers. They prefer high, dry locations exposed to direct sunlight. Chinch bugs can be controlled by repeated applications of diazinon, Aspon, or chlorpyrifos (Dursban).
Grubs - Grubs of the Japanese beetle, May or June beetle, northern masked chafer, European chafer, green June beetle, Oriental beetle, and Asiatic garden beetle may severely damage turf. These grubs feed on roots of the grass and when abundant may completely sever the turf from the soil so that it can be rolled up like a carpet. Grubs can be controlled with chlorpyrifos, diazinon or trichlorfon (Dylox, Proxyl). In severely damaged areas the severed turf should be raked off prior to insecticide application and reseeding.
Sod Webworm - The presence of small, buff colored moths flying above the turf in a zig-zag pattern during the evening hours is a sign of sod webworm infestation. The moths, harmless to turf, are the adult stage of the webworm; immature larvae and the webworm caterpillars damage the turf. The sod webworm constructs "silken lined" tunnels in the soil; webworms emerge during the evening or night to feed by clipping off grass blades at the soil surface. During the daylight they hide in the tunnels. The first symptoms of damage are small irregular patches of dead grass which enlarge as damaged areas coalesce. Carbaryl (Sevin), chlorpyrifos, or trichlorfon applied in late afternoon or early evening will control sod webworm.

Other Pests

Moles - Turfgrass areas infested with mole runs or tunnels become unsightly, uneven, and difficult to mow. Contrary to common belief, attempting to kill the moles by poison bait or mole traps is not the best solution.Arial, helvetica The moles are there because the soil is infested with grubs, a favorite food. Treatment with an approved insecticide for grub control will cause the moles to abandon the area as their food source is exhausted.
Skunks - Skunks may damage turf by rooting for grubs. The solution, as in mole control, is to eliminate the grubs with an appropriate insecticide.
Dog Damage - The effect of dog urine on turfgrasses depends upon the amount of soluble salts in the urine. When soluble salt concentration is high, turf in the affected area will be killed. Damaged areas are usually round or slightly irregular in shape and variable in size. Nitrogen from urine with lower salt concentration may stimulate vigorous dark green growth.
Mouse Damage During periods of heavy snowfall (particularly if snow comes before the soil is frozen) mice may make runways in the turf under the snow. These runways are on the surface of the turf rather than under the turf as with moles, and normally are most severe in heavily matted turf where snow tends to accumulate in pockets. Mice have been known to feed on tender plants along the run.

Soils

Soil Compaction - Soils of poor physical condition or those subjected to play or heavy traffic (especially when wet) form an impervious surface layer which prevents water infiltration, nutrient penetration, and gaseous exchange between the soil and the atmosphere. Under these conditions turfgrasses may thin out and be replaced by weeds such as knotweed, which flourish on compacted soils. Aerating machines will remove soil plugs or cores, creating an artificial system of large pores which will permit moisture, nutrients, and air to enter the soil and alleviate the compacted condition.
Winter Scald - Damage from winter scald may occur where poor drainage permits ponded water to freeze. Heat from the sun shining through this layer of ice can initiate growth. As no gaseous exchange can occur through the ice, some turf may die. The only solution is to correct the drainage problem.
Summer Scald - Poorly drained areas subject to water ponding for short periods may be seriously damaged by scald. Summer thunderstorms may release large amounts of water in a short period; if the storm is followed by clearing and a hot sun, the sun's action on the ponded water will produce anaerobic conditions which cause the damage. As with winter scald, the only practical solution is to improve drainage.

Other Problems

Thatch - Layers of partially decomposed leaves, stems, and roots at the soil surface will build up over a period of years. Thatch decreases turfgrass vigor by restricting the movement of water, air, fertilizers, and pesticides into the soil. Roots are normally quite shallow under thatch conditions, increasing the danger of drought damage to the plant. Disease attacks may be accentuated by thatch accumulations. Mechanical thatching equipment should be used in spring or fall when grass recovery is rapid. It is best to remove thatch accumulations in several treatments rather than at one time.
Tree Competition - Trees, especially those with shallow feeder roots, compete with grass for water, nutrients, and light. Where there is heavy shade and/or many surface roots, it is best to plant a ground cover such as pachysandra, myrtle, or ivy rather than attempt to grow grass. Where competition is less severe, improve turf by the following methods: (1) use shade-tolerant grasses such as the fescues and Poa trivialis; (2) fertilize grass at 1 1/2 to 2 times the normal rate; (3) fertilize trees; (4) water deeply and infrequently; (5) maintain a soil pH favorable to the grass; (6) prune tree branches and roots as much as possible; and (7) mow the grass higher than normal.
Seed Mixtures - Many turf problems can be traced to the original seed mixture - either a poor quality mixture, or a mixture not appropriate for the particular area. For example, grasses such as common ryegrass, timothy, and redtop normally will not persist under normal management. Kentucky bluegrasses are unsatisfactory for use in shaded areas but are excellent in open sun. Fine fescues are well adapted to shade conditions. Tall fescue, when seeded alone, is an excellent play field or utility grass but should not be used in seed mixtures. Bentgrass requires intensive management and, therefore, is not compatible with Kentucky bluegrass and fine fescues. Select a grass seed mixture according to environmental conditions, use of the area, and the planned management program.
Gasoline and Oil - Servicing or refueling power mowers or other power equipment on the turfgrass area may cause considerable damage from gasoline or oil spillage. Because it is not immediately apparent, this type of damage may be incorrectly diagnosed as disease, insect damage, or dog injury. If the soil is saturated (especially with oil) it may be some time before reseeding will be successful. To avoid the problem always service or refuel power equipment off the turfgrass area.
Salt Damage - Turf damage often appears in late winter or early spring in grass plots between the sidewalk and the street. Frequently this damage is due to high soil salt concentration from salt materials used for de-icing highways and streets. The same type of damage may be found adjacent to sidewalks if salt or a soluble nitrogen fertilizer has been used for ice control. Normally, spring rains will leach salt concentrations below the grass root zone, permitting reseeding of these areas.
Prepared by Peter J. Landschoot, Associate Professor of Turfgrass Science.